Monday, 16 July 2018

Birding Tanzania - Days 16 - 19

Photos still to be added

Day 16 - 12 July 2018

On Thursday 12th July, we awoke feeling flat and tired from staying up to watch England lose in the World Cup semi-finals. In a way it was good not to be home, will all the disappointment inevitably around. Birding is great antidote for misery.

As Mum and Dad had missed the Usambara Akalat the evening before, Anthony was taking us to a different site to give it another chance. We were moving on afterwards so didn’t have long to spend looking, which was added pressure.  It’s always particularly painful to miss a bird, but much more so when your 16 year old daughter sees it and you don’t. Then for years to come, every time you look through your world list, the injustice and pain is felt again.

However, luck was with them, as within a short time we heard an Usambara Akalat. We had to then follow the call into the forest on a rough steep trail before catching sight of the bird.  There was a silent relief after both Mum and Dad had seen the bird.

We also saw some of the regional endemics again; Shelley’s, Mountain and Fischer’s Greenbul, Black-headed Apalis, Usambara Double-collared Sunbird and fantastic views of Spot Throat.

By 11 am, we have returned to the Lodge, got our bags and got on our way to the Eastern Usambara.

Enroute from West to East Usamabara, we looked for Zanzibar Red Bishop but we only saw Southern Red Bishop and Yellow Bishop, which was disappointing, as I would love to see something with Zanzibar in the name.

We were staying at the Amani Research Station at the top of the mountain road, in Amani Nature Reserve which was at about 1400 metres. As we reached the approach road at the bottom, we stopped to look for Kretchmer’s Longbill which is resident at about 1000 metres. After about 45 minutes of searching, we managed to find one and went to find out accommodation.  The research station was clean and comfortable, though apparently not luxurious enough for lots of birders who don’t stay here. I would say that it’s a site you cant afford to miss in Tanzania.

Day 17 - 13 July 2018

On Friday 13th July we got up early bird the trails around the research station, before going back for a late breakfast. We then birded until lunch time  and in the afternoon again in the Amani area.

Birds of the day was critically endangered Long-billed Forest Warbler (Taylorbird). There are only a few birds left in this location and so few that they don’t know how many. ICUN had paid for the research station, in an effort to find out more about this species and try and save it from extinction. It is therefore an extremely difficult bird to see an Anthony told us that he had not seen it for the last 4 visits here. We found one calling and managed to get some brilliant views, so were ecstatic. Other great birds were Montaine Tiny Greenbul, Banded Green Sunbird and Amani Sunbird.

During our trip so far, dad had decided to cross reference my world list of 4725 against his world list of 6050, to see if there were missing birds of either of our lists. They he researched the missing birds to see of they were birds I really didn’t see or ones that had been missed off my list. Tonight he finished his check, with a few more he still had to do when we were home. Add in my Tanzanian new birds so far, my world list total is 4,800!

Day 18 - 14 July 2018

On the morning of Saturday 14th July, we decided to have an early breakfast before birding the local trails, as there wasn’t much activity the previous morning until about 8 am. We birded a different trail and managed to see Usambara Hyliota and Banded Green Sunbird, which were both target birds here. We were starting to connect with all our targets, with just a couple left,

After lunch and a bit of downtime, we were out birding the trail above the research station. Anthony said that this was a good area for Sharp’s Akalat. Within about half an hour, we heard a Sharp’s Akalat and almost immediately it flew across the path, giving us all flight views. We tried there for a while and carried on to a viewpoint before turning back. On the way back, we found an Akalat calling and preening only a metre from the path. We were able to watch it for 5 minutes. Amazing!

As we walked back to the lodge, we discussed that the Usamabara Eagle Owl did roost  in the forests around the lodge but that they hadn’t been calling for a month. So that would have to wait on the wanted list for next time we visited.

That night at the research station, there was a large group of people attended a conference from around Tanzania. They worked in tourism and were there to see what Tanzanian tourists can do at Amani. There was a BBQ and group of local young men dancing for entertainment. I decided to get to bed early and had just drifted off when I could hear mum running and panting towards the building. She had told us this morning that the night before she was sitting outside in the one place the WIFI worked when she had heard an animal  with a large bite chomping loudly on fruit, which had scared her. Was she being chased by a Monkey?? The next minute, she burst into my room, “Eagle Owl!”. I jumped out of bed, as mum grabbed my binoculars and handed them to me and the next minute we were running down the hill. Anthony and two of the rangers were watching an Usambara Eagle Owl perched above the road. As we watched it, Anthony told us that there were three owls calling, which was unbelievable after a month of silence and that he had never seen the owls from the road itself. Just at this moment, another owl flew in. That was the last of our target Usamabara birds. Every single one. Anthony told us that he had never seen all of them in one visit before. On that high note, I went to bed. 

I couldn’t sleep but could hear the local guys singing and dancing for a few hours. At one point, dad came into my room. Mum had brought one of dad’s unworn Liverpool FC T-shirt with her and said she would give into the first person who said they supported Liverpool. So, for the whole trip waiters & rangers said they supported Man U, Man City, Arsenal but no Liverpool. When Dad came into get the T-shirt from my room, he said that Anthony had asked the group if anyone supported Liverpool and lad at the front (who couldn’t speak English) started jumping up and down, shouting “Mo Salah,  Mo Salah, Mo Salah, Sadio Mane, Sadio Mane”. Dad told me that when Anthony told him we had a  Liverpool FC T-Shirt and were giving it to him, he had been jumping up and down, shouting “Mo Salah”, giving Mum and him hugs and saying “I love you”. On that even happier note, I did manage to get to sleep, ready for our early start and long 10 hour journey tomorrow. 

Day 19 - 15 July 2018

The morning of Sunday 15th July, we were up early after the excitement of the previous night. We had a 6.30 am breakfast, so that we could get on the way as we had a 10 hour drive down to Mikumbe National Park, where you get all the big game. We drove South down the main highway and then took the right fork where the left goes to Dar es Salaam (Dar) and we were using the highway to all the landlocked central African countries. The highway was full of lorries with supplies going from Dar bound inland and was jointly funded by the landlocked countries.

Number of new birds - 73

Trip list -  407

Thursday, 12 July 2018

Birding Tanzania - Days 12-15

Photos still to be added

Day 12 - 8 July 2018

On Sunday 8 July, we left Arusha to head east.

However, first we stopped at an upmarket part of town with big houses and old trees, where we found our target, Brown-breasted Barbet.

Brown-breasted Barbet

Then we had a two  hour drive to the North Pare Mountains, at Kifaru, where we saw Taveta Weaver, African Reed Warbler, several Malachite Kingfisher and finally saw Bare-eyed Thrush, after so many attempts.

Bare-faced Thrush

Taveta Weaver

After more driving, we stopped at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Here we saw Somali Bunting (I love anything with Somali in the name!), Baglafecht Weaver and Red-faced Crombec. 


Python body

Python head

Somali Bunting

That night we stayed at Elephant Motel in Kakatu where we were staying for two nights whilst we birded that area.

Day 13 - 9 July 2018

This morning, Monday 9th July we went for a pre breakfast birding jaunt to the South Pare Mountains (part of the Eastern Arc Mountain range), where we saw our target species of Scaly Chatterer, another Bare-eyed Thrush, Tsavo Sunbird, Grey-headed Silverbill and Southern Grosbeak-starling. 

We carried on, to bird at Shengena Peak, also in the Southern Pare Mountains. Here we had a brilliant few hours birding seeing Black-headed Apalis (white bodied form), Montane White-eye (surely this is going to be a split to South Pare White-eye?), Usambara Double-collared Sunbird.

Day 14 - 10 July 2018

In the morning we birded in Mkomazi, still in the South Pare Mountains, where we saw our target Eastern Black-headed Batis.

Then we drove east, stopping at one site en-route where we saw Coastal Cisticola. The area after this is good for Striped Pipit, so although we looked from the road, we didn’t see one.

We reached Muller’s Lodge in Lushoto for lunchtime, which is also in the Western Usambara, which is also within Eastern Arc Mountain range

Tanzania used to be a German colony until after the Second World War when Britain took over.  Lushoto was chosen as their administrative centre and our hotel was where the Governor lived. They chose this area as their headquarters to live because it was cool in the mountains and fewer mosquitos.

We spent the afternoon birding in the Mkuzi Forest, surrounding forests within Usambara West. It was a shame that in the background all we could hear the constant sound of chainsaws even though it is meant to be protected as National Park.  We saw some great birds, including a larger race of Fork-tailed Drone (ripe for a split?), Red-capped Forest Warbler and White-chested Alethe.

Back at the lodge, pre dinner, we saw an African Owl that Anthony had called in then came to get us from our room. Apparently, they got African Spotted Eagle Owl and Usambara Nightjar on the grounds, but we unfortunately didn’t see them.

Day 15 - 11 July 2018

Today, Wednesday 11th July we spent the whole day birding in Magambe Forest, in the West Usambara. The section of forest we visited has been preserved better than the area where we birded yesterday which was closer to villages.

I saw all our targets which were Mountain, Shelley’s, Stripe-faced and Placid Greenbuls, Usambara Thrush, Weaver and Akalat and a Spot-throat. The last four birds are incredibly skulky and so we had to go to a quiet area, where we walked deep into the forest. It’s the sort of birding that I’m in my element in, lots of sitting still and picking out the slightest movement with my young eyes, which makes a lot of difference. The Usambara Akalat was a bird that only I saw. I called it and pointed out where it had disappeared just as it called again from where I was pointing, just to prove me right. So we would be returning to the forest tomorrow to try and get Mum and Dad onto it. Unsurprisingly, no photos of the sulky birds!

It was rapidly getting dark as we tried to find our way out of the forest when Anthony called Usambara Nightjar, then which flew over several times.

Back at the hotel after dinner, we settled down to watching England V Croatia on TV,  with a coal fire bowl nest to us to keep us warm. We then went through all the emotions of the match, with everyone back home, from a goal up to a lose…

Number of bird species seen - 364

Number of new world life birds seen - 48

About the Author

Birdgirl Mya-Rose Craig in Antarctica
Photograph copyright Young Birder Birdgirl Mya-Rose Craig

Mya-Rose Craig is a 16-year-old young British Bangladeshi birder, naturalist, conservationist, environmentalist, activist, writer and speaker. She is based near Bristol and writes the successful Birdgirl Blog, with posts about birding and conservation from around the world. She loved seeing Mountain Gorillas in East Africa and Penguins in Antarctica over Christmas 2015, her 7th continent. She is looking forward to visiting Tanzania, Kenya and Madagascar birding in 2018 and hopes to see her 5000th bird species in the world.

Mya-Rose was a Bristol European Green Capital Ambassador along with Kevin McCloud, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Tony Juniper, Simon King, Miranda Krestovnikoff and Shaun the Sheep! See the full list of Bristol Ambassadors. She has also been listed with the singer-songwriter George Ezra and actress Maisie Williams from Game of Thrones as one of Bristol's most influential young people
She is an Ambassador for World Shorebirds Day, See It Her Way and a Charter Champion for The Charter for Woods, Trees and People. She has given over 50 talks, speaking at conferences such as being on a panel with George Monbiot and Caroline Lucas on Sustainability and the Future of Cities. She has also appeared on TV an dis particularly proud of being in Silent Roars, a short film which was part of Listen to Britain 2017 organised a conference, Race Equality in Nature, in June 2016 aiming to increase the ethnic diversity in nature and plans to run her fifth Camp Avalon camp in 2018. She has also set up Black2Nature with the aim of working with organisations to increase the access to nature of Black Asian Minority Ethnic people. Please connect with her on LinkedIn (Mya-Rose Birdgirl Craig) so that she can invite you to join the Race Equality in Nature LinkedIn Group and be part of the change. She has been awarded the Bath and West Show Environmental Youth Award 2017 for Bristol for her Black2Nature work EYA 2017Please also like her Birdgirl Facebook Page and follow her on Birdgirl Twitter.